“The Bay,” by Allston James, ran in the September 1990 issue of SURFER Magazine. This version has been slightly edited and reformatted.
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Waimea Bay has always been a place that defined limits, both oceanic and human. Name a surfer anywhere who hasn’t wondered if he would ever have the desire and skill to ride Waimea. It’s a potentially disturbing question that resides in every surfer’s consciousness, to one degree or another.
Imagine the feeling of being the fir…